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When compiling a list of London’s best eateries, one might expect familiar Michelin-starred establishments. However, tucked prominently among these culinary heavyweights is a unpretentious salonu situated in a outlying part of northern London.

A Shocking Recognition

This compact Turkish restaurant, specialising in the culinary delights of Mersin, a port city on Turkey’s Mediterranean coast, has been crowned the 4th top restaurant in the city by a influential culinary publication. This honour has left the proprietors completely shocked.

“I am totally astonished,” states the proprietor, alluding to his parents’ hard graft that resulted in their modest restaurant securing such a lofty position on a notable 99-strong list.

A Character of Simplicity

This little venue, which was a simple cafe before its conversion into a sought-after destination, has kept much of its original charm. It seats just more than 20 people and, except for the vibrant live cooking performance, the interior remains essentially unchanged. “It’s a small and stocky place,” comments the owner.

The Signature Dish: Tantuni

However, it’s all about the food, and this eatery definitely succeeds. The eatery’s eponymous dish, tantuni, is a simple pleasure. The meat—whether lamb or chicken—is steamed to maintain a moist, juicy texture.

The meat is then thrown into a sizeable pan with seasonings and oil, which are added in bit by bit. When the meaty mixture heats through, handmade lavaş—a pliable bread—is laid on top to absorb all the flavours. Thinly sliced onions and a handful of parsley go inside before the flavourful meat is folded tightly inside.

It is often enjoyed with a drop of lemon or some tangy accompaniments. The final product is a mighty slap of taste, with soft hints of sumac, punchy onions and rich, paprika-red oil bringing it all together.

Beyond the Classic Tantuni

There is also yoğurtlu tantuni, where the meat-filled lavaş is sliced and crowned with yogurt, tomato sauce and rich, nutty brown butter. The respected food critic called this dish “one of London’s few flawless, impeccable dishes”.

For dessert, the eatery’s künefe goes down a delight. It is soaked in less syrup than is typical, giving it a richer, nuttier and not overly sweet flavour.

Surpassing the Stars

Interestingly, this unassuming spot has outplaced several illustrious three-Michelin-starred establishments. It finds itself just behind the top of the list, just after other high-profile dining destinations.

Whereas two people could easily leave the restaurant stuffed for under £25, similar tasting menus at high-end establishments can cost significantly more than that amount.

A Ethos of Warmth

It is also among several Turkish restaurants included and is located well beyond the city’s central zones. “It’s not concerning luxury. London is an expensive city. It is assumption that in an high-cost place you’re going to have the best service and finest food but I don’t believe in that,” states the owner.

“I believe what is crucial is hospitality, a welcoming atmosphere and a place you can be yourself and be calm.”

The view is shared by the list’s compiler, who stated that if he was in a position of authority, he would “make it mandatory to have every chef in London train at this spot as a final lesson, to teach them the dangers of excess, and to reveal what is possible if you do just one – or three – things to their absolute best”.

A Journey of Hard Work

Unlike most chefs managing kitchens in the list’s top ten, the head chef behind the food didn’t work at Michelin-starred establishments. “I feel very happy of our restaurant and our mum,” concludes her son.

Many restaurants need years to find their footing, but this eatery first started seven years ago. Its acclaim is thanks to tireless, seven-day weeks of dedication.

“My mum would be very tired. She would buy ingredients in the morning and make the food in the afternoon. Each item is prepared manually; she would do all of this. She is a single mother and she balanced a social life but her friends would visit to encourage her. She was raising children and a house to care for as well. All of these duties shaped her into what she is now: a brilliant person,” he shares.

A Recognition for the Community

The restaurant’s recognition is likely to echo beyond its own premises. “I believe a lot of people would be happy, as I am, because the Turkish community is a significant part of London,” notes the owner, emphasising the wider importance of this culinary honour.