Tempting kebabs, fragrant biryani, and whipped, cloud-like desserts.
The metropolis in India's north of Lucknow has consistently been a haven for gastronomes, with residents and tourists equally swearing by its superb cuisine.
Worldwide Recognition
In a recent announcement, UNESCO recognised it as a Creative City of Gastronomy – placing it on a select group of world cities and sparking hopes that it will showcase Lucknow's peerless food. With this status, it joins a global network of cities metropolises across more than 100 countries focused on promoting "innovation as a catalyst of city development that is sustainable".
The honor "is a testament to its profound gastronomic legacy and vibrant food ecosystem," according to a representative from UNESCO's Regional Office for South Asia.
Lucknow is merely the second Indian city – after Hyderabad, which was picked in 2019 – to secure a position in this coveted list of seventy urban centers internationally.
A City Defined by Food
The honor for this venerable city arrives as no surprise to its residents or passionate food lovers. Many agree with the opinion that it is "a recognition that was delayed".
With the UNESCO recognition, this beloved, lively, and eclectic city – the administrative center of India's biggest state – is at last in the limelight for what has always shaped its soul: an unparalleled love for food.
"'What's for dinner, the method of preparation' is a constant discussion from morning until night in most homes," states a local cultural expert. "And you are actually evaluated by the standard of food that emerges from your kitchen."
A Royal Culinary Legacy
The City of Nawabs – as it's popularly called after its historic affluent Muslim rulers – is noted for its succulent kebabs and a distinctive take on biryani that were invented, refined, and taken to extraordinary levels in their opulent kitchens.
These imperial kitchens were hubs of food experimentation, merging Iranian and local Indian styles to create what became known as the food of Awadh.
It was in this era that Lucknow's renowned kebabs were fashioned. The story goes that the mutton galouti was devised to cater to an ageing nawab who had lost his teeth. His cooks processed the meat with raw papaya, saffron, and a blend of spices and made it so fine that it required no chewing.
But arguably the greatest contribution of the chefs of Awadh was the slow-cook Dum pukht technique, where food is prepared on a gentle, leisurely heat, with the container's cover securely sealed with dough.
More Than Just Famous Dishes
Besides the famous kebabs and biryani, the cooks also built up a vast array of dishes that included kormas (rich curries), sheermal (saffron-infused flatbread), and shahi tukda (a decadent bread pudding).
However, Lucknow is not just about kebabs and biryani – the region is also a haven for vegetarians.
The local traditionally vegetarian community's cuisine not only celebrates local ingredients but also provides the city its highly curated Indian desserts, sweets, and distinctive street food, like chaat – zesty fried snacks.
Hidden Gems and Legacy Eateries
Virtually on countless corners, there are little shops and kiosks – lesser-known treasures that are extremely favored by the locals.
In the central district of Hazratganj, large gatherings start assembling from early morning at a renowned tea stall to get a steaming cup of spiced tea with milk, offered in clay glasses, along with incredibly soft buns lathered with freshly churned white butter.
In the morning, one can visit a simple joint situated in the old city area of Aminabad. Almost 150 years after it was founded, the place is still much sought-after for its freshly fried kachoris (fried bread stuffed with lentils) and jalebis (crispy, syrup-soaked sweets).
Preserving Tradition for the Future
The city also presents remarkable treats of the season, such as makkhan malai, a frothy dessert savored in the winter. The technique of making it is intricate and involved. The vendor hand-churns the milk and then sets it out at night, allowing the nighttime moisture to give it its amazing light consistency.
On chilly mornings, street vendors can be seen in old city areas like Aminabad and Chowk. Some however note that their younger generation do not want to learn the skill.
A renowned chef from Lucknow has frequently stated that the city's immense food legacy puts it right on top of the Indian street food experience. The significant impact from the UNESCO recognition, it is believed, will materialize only if Lucknow can now generate interest about its under-the-radar eateries.
Every dish in Lucknow has a narrative – influenced by family-run food businesses, from modest street carts to busy restaurants, and guarded family recipes.
The global recognition, it is hoped, will inspire more people around the world to discover these narratives and travel to the city to savour the culinary delights of Lucknow.